Water damage repair
Repair is the second half of the job. The first half is drying, and closing a wall before the framing behind it is dry is how a plumbing repair becomes a mould problem in the spring.
Nothing gets closed until the readings say so
Framing, subfloor and the bottom plate of a stud wall are checked with a moisture meter against a dry reference elsewhere in the house. Surfaces feel dry long before the material behind them is, and drywall installed over framing that still holds moisture traps it with nowhere to go.
What usually needs replacing
Carpet padding almost always. Drywall that was wet more than a few inches up from the floor, because it wicks upward and crumbles. Insulation in an affected cavity. Particleboard or MDF anywhere — cabinet bases, vanity boxes, some flooring underlayment — because it swells and does not recover.
Solid wood, plywood, concrete and masonry usually dry and stay. The judgement call is engineered flooring, which sometimes recovers and sometimes delaminates weeks later.
Two trades, sometimes two invoices
Mitigation and drying is one specialty. Rebuilding — drywall, paint, flooring, trim — is general contracting. Some firms do both, some do only the first and hand the second off. Worth asking early, because a quote covering only the drying looks far cheaper than one covering the whole job.
Older Maryland housing complicates it
Plaster over wood lath does not behave like drywall. It holds water longer, it can look intact while the lath behind it stays saturated, and patching it well is a different skill from hanging board. In the rowhouse belt east of Baltimore and in old Ellicott City, that is what is on the walls — and it is worth confirming that whoever quotes the rebuild has done it before.